Please follow the instruction here.
Recently I brought a wireless doodle for the Raspberry Pi so I can get rid of the internet cable for the pi, as the page RPi VerifiedPeripherals (ref1) says TP-Link TL-WN725N works out of the box, I brought it. But unfortunately, it doesn’t work.
This is a idea/plan that I want to do.
Lately I brought a Canon 60D, and it’s cable shutter release is using 2.5mm audio jack which is a quite common and cheap so I decide to make one or more cable shutter release/s.
From the tip to the cable, there’s three contact point. Normally there are Left | Right | GND, as using on the 60D, they defined as Shutter | Focus | GND.
Things to do:
1. Build a manual shutter release;
2. Using Arduino as a controller so time-lapse photography will be much easier.Done
So far for now, I’ll update when I make something new.
Update: After installed the MagicLantern firmware to my 60D, it got the intervalmeter function, so it no longer need a outer controller to do the clicking.
That’s the thing I made. I’ll edit this post with more detailed information later.
| Meterial | Count | in CNY | in USD(6.4:1) | Comment |
| Box | 1 | 0 | 0 | from a box of Hershey’s |
| Wire | 10 | 0.15 | 0.02 | |
| Glue stick | 3 | 0.9 | 0.14 | |
| Battery | 1 | 20 | 3.13 | 3.7v/3700mhA |
| protective circuit for battery | 1 | 3.8 | 0.59 | |
| Solar pannel | 1 | 6.8 | 1.06 | 4.5v/78mA |
| Schottky diode | 1 | 0.5 | 0.08 | ID 5819 |
| booster circuit | 1 | 8 | 1.25 | pre-made, output 5V/500mA |
| LED | 1 | 0.1 | 0.02 | |
| Resister | 1 | 0.02 | 0 | 2.2k |
| USB mini port | 1 | 0.28 | 0.04 | |
| self-lock button | 1 | 0.33 | 0.05 | 7*7mm |
| capaciter | 3 | 0.06 | 0.01 | 1μf |
| Battery Charger IC | 1 | 9 | 1.41 | MAX1555 |
| bread board | 1 | 4 | 0.63 | |
| Total price | 53.94 | 8.43 |
This is a idea/plan that I want to do.
I wanna create a arduino project to generate QR code by itself, and using a 128×64 LCD display to show that. It can transfer short message from computer or from any senser hooked up to arduino or anything you want.
This is a idea/plan that I want to do.
Idea comes from the computer I’m using. My old computer (HP TX1106au) has a physical mute button and you just push it and it worked. But my new computer (ASUS U36sd), will, if I want mute, I need to put Fn key and F9 which means mute, but it only works when all the system is boot up because it depends on the software to function which I don’t like.
As I know, as a HID input device, mute has a designated key value Dec 127/Hex 7F (you can find it at: http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/Hut1_11.pdf on page 56). And this blog (http://hunt.net.nz/users/darran/) give me the idea to build a usb input device though I may not use arduino in the final model. What I may use is V-USB (http://www.obdev.at/products/vusb/index.html), and the chip maybe ATMEL attiny85, the ideal size is about a Logitech Unifying Receiver.
After more than 3 years hard-working, my laptop’s CPU and GPU temperature became higher and higher. So I finally make up my mind to tear it down to pieces to do a tougher cleaning. And more, I find that there’s a little gap between the GPU and the thermal-pipe, stuffed with very unpleasant silica gel, which is the reason why my GPU’s temperature never been lower than 80℃, which is unsafe and harmful to the GPU and other hardware close-by. To replace that, I brought a little piece of copper which thickness is 1.2mm to fit into that gap. And it turns out that the copper is a little too thick for the gap, but after the test I think it still do the work so maybe some time later I’ll buy a thinner one to replace it. Here’s the photo I took.